Paris: Jean Paul Gaultier kicked off his haute couture show in Paris on Wednesday turning fashion on its head with a wedding gown - usually reserved as the final look - worn by a model with curlers in her hair.

Granted, the curlers were arranged in a chic bouffant atop the model's head, and took nothing away from the elegance of the diaphanous silk tulle gown.

Set to a 1980s pop soundtrack that teased out Billy Idol's "White Wedding", the collection for Spring/Summer 2015 retained the French designer's characteristic humour and irreverence.

Black satin, snakeskin, crinoline - all the mainstays of Gaultier's repertoire were mixed into this 61-look, mostly black and ivory collection that never felt trashy or out of date.

The surprise finale was ex-supermodel Naomi Campbell wrapped up in what looked like shiny clear wrapping paper, a garland of orchids and ferns setting off the look.

France's ex-first lady, singer and former model Carla Bruni Sarkozy sat in the front row, along with Catherine Deneuve, Dita Von Teese and Conchita Wurst, the bearded former Eurovision winner sporting a plunging neckline and perfectly coiffed hair.

Gaultier, whose brand is owned by Spanish perfumer Puig, put on his last ready-to-wear show in September in order to focus on haute couture, special collaborations, and perfume.

At Elie Saab things were more subdued, with the sound of birds greeting guests as they took their seats.

Lace, feathers and thousands of tiny sequins were worked in dozens of different ways in a collection that recalled 1930s glamour. The Lebanese designer, a favourite of the well-heeled on the red carpet, served up more of his trademark romantic gowns in shades of powder blue, beige and pinks.

The showstopper was the wedding gown with the delicacy of butterfly wings, entirely encrusted with tiny sequins and pearls in a palm frond pattern in pale pink, green and silver.